When the art of top Czech chefs combines with the talent of a Michelin one-star chef from London and a sommelier who heads the wine selection at a renowned restaurant with three Michelin Guide stars, the result is... Anemoia pop-up.
The Ambiente catering group often demonstrates its strength in the market by opening new ventures that resonate with customers. We discovered just how impressive the Štangl restaurant is with a recent guest appearance by Yiannis Mexis, head chef at London's Michelin one-star Hide. Yiannis not only showcased his exceptional cooking skills but also praised the local team. "The style of work in our London restaurant and the overall philosophy are very similar to that of Štangl," Yiannis explained in an upcoming interview with VisitChef. "If there was a Štangl restaurant in London, it would definitely have a Michelin Guide award."
Martin Kleveta, head sommelier at the Michelin three-star restaurant Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, also had nothing but praise. If you're looking for a connection, Martin worked as a sommelier for four years at London's Hide restaurant with Yiannis. He has also gained experience at places like the famous The Fat Duck and was a sommelier at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. Martin is relatively unknown in Czechoslovak gastronomic circles, yet his achievements in the sommelier field are phenomenal. We are also preparing an interview with him on VisitChef in the near future.
One evening, 36 guests, top chefs, an even better sommelier, and the Anemoia pop-up can begin. Anemoia is synonymous with Déjà vu, a nostalgia for a time we don't know, a time that never happened, but reminds you of something.
If the first three canapés—Artichoke-elm, Trout-citrus, and Octopus-tarama—surprised guests from the start with their bold flavors and meticulous preparation, the next course, Pea Flower, left everyone astounded. The flower on top was the upper part of a tulip, which chef Martin Štangl assured us was edible. The other components—peas and yuzu—created an unprecedented combination—fantastic! For the first course, Martin Kleveta paired it with a mixed drink, White Port & tonic. The Pea Flower was complemented by the Greek wine 2018 Assyrtiko - Kir Yianni - Amynteou PDO. "I have deliberately chosen all the wines for tonight to be available in the Czech Republic. I want guests to have the chance to get them here if they like them," reveals the sommelier of the key to tonight's pairing.
The Old Groendal cheese with nettle and wild garlic played beautifully together in the dish, with seemingly simple plating hiding finer details upon closer inspection. Moreover, the flavor balance was perfectly complemented by the 2020 Aligoté - Domaine Comte Armand from Burgundy. In France, we remained for the next course, with Martin Kleveta choosing a 2010 Champagne Drappier Grande Sendrée Rosé Brut to accompany the bread-and-tomato-Majorca course. Even as Yiannis pulled the little dough snails out of the teapot, we anticipated something special, and it was confirmed. A totally perfect combination from start to finish!
We're halfway through the tasting evening; the sea bass is next, or rather on the plate, and we receive a glass of the 2017 Furmint Dry Tokaj Wine - István Szepsy. Perch on the plate is combined with white asparagus and seaweed, intensifying flavors, and the mood in the Štangl restaurant. Yiannis praises the freshwater fish, and Martin Štangl raves about the lamb Yiannis "brought" from England after dinner. "It wasn't even much lamb anymore because the animal was two years old," he explains. The two chefs complement each other perfectly when preparing dinner. "I always thought freshwater fish was muddy in taste, and some of it really is, but the ones we used tonight were delicate," Yiannis adds.
The chefs served the aforementioned lamb to guests with wild garlic and morels, paired with a 2018 Kistler Vineyards California Pinot Noir. It was the highlight of the day's symphony. Simple plating, yet impeccable flavors. And the last three subtly sweet and lightened things up: Horchata-loquat-cinnamon, Goat's milk-pistachio-ras el hanout, and Seno-malines-champagne, all concluded beautifully in their execution and the techniques used in their preparation by the chefs under the special guidance of Yiannis Mexis today. The Anemoia pop-up has a swing, a pace, you can see that the chefs have cooked their hearts out. The ease (!) with which the whole evening unfolds, and with which the kitchen delivers the tasting portions, is almost beyond belief in our latitudes.
"Martin and Yiannis are huge pros, we are very grateful for the fact that they have enriched us with their experience and given us new inspiration," adds Martin Štangl, promising to hold more such pop-ups at the Karlin restaurant.
