He let the team rest a bit in the summer, and now he's going from zero to 100. Chef Petr Svoreň heads the kitchen at Brno's Hotel Passage, and it's clear that the stable background suits him. His cuisine has energy, confidence, and lightness at the same time. Whether it's honest, reduced sauces and clean flavors on the plate or an interesting twist on Czech classics, Svoreň and his team prove that even a hotel restaurant can be a place worth visiting just for the food.
A Cuisine That Breathes Confidence
The street-level restaurant has a modern, understated yet airy, and cozy feel. One of the landmarks of the space is the wine cellar, which literally invites guests to "reach for their bottle." Service is relaxed but precise, just like the entire menu, which the chefs change weekly without the food losing consistency or style.
For those who want a glimpse into the kitchen's soul, there's a six-course tasting menu. "In the summer, I let my colleagues relax a bit, but in the autumn, it's zero to a hundred," laughs Svoreň as he brings out the first course.
The first moment on the table reveals that this is going to be a very interesting tasting. Beet bread with smoked butter, which the chefs themselves "beat in olive dust," opens the menu with aroma, texture, and a subtle smokiness. The bread is supple, with a slight sweetness from the beets, and the butter leaves a subtly smoky trail in your mouth that instantly puts you in tune with the rhythm of the evening.
Tomatoes, Carp, Trout
The first starter, tomato sorbet, is the perfect start. "We'll make a crayfish sorbet with our tomatoes that we marinate, and then a mousse of sour cream that we'll add flavor to," explains the chef. On the plate, a play of contrasts emerges: the cool sweetness of the sorbet, the creamy smoothness of the mousse, and, on top, a tomato biscuit with clove oil and olive dust. Light, fresh, with a touch of herbs and acid - the perfect start.
The second starter is already a kitchen staple - sweet and sour carp, a signature dish that Svoreň brings back into play even when the menu changes. "We're Czech; we like sweet and sour sauces. We don't thicken our sauce; we just reduce it and season it with spices, a little vinaigrette, salt, and sugar. And we just marinate the carp like ceviche," he says. The delicate flesh of the fish is complemented by caviar pearls and dill oil. Saltiness, acidity, and a hint of sweetness meet on the tongue - perfectly balanced Czech comfort in a modern dress.
Even the third course logically follows the philosophy of the local cuisine. Trout poached in butter brings the classics softened with a modern approach. The meat is tender and flavorful, accompanied by creamy cauliflower puree and fermented cauliflower, which adds the necessary acidic component and depth of flavor. An elegant, understated dish that doesn't need effects because it speaks with flavors and good processing of ingredients.
The Two Faces of Duck
The main meat course belongs to the duck - one grilled, marinated, the other, after marinating, breaded and fried. "We just like the meat to be plated the way it should be," notes Svoreň with a smile. The marinated meat is juicy, slightly salty, with a touch of smoke, while the fried cut offers a crispy texture and rustic flavor. The two are united by an intense reduction and oil that accentuate the flavors. On the next plate, there is no shortage of spätzle - a small nod towards the traditional cuisine that Svoreň is based on.
A Sweet Ending in Three Acts
"We change the desserts according to the season and a little bit according to the mood," smiles the chef as the finale arrives. And the chefs' mood this time is clearly on the safe side - why not? The Signature Chocolate Cake with Baked Chocolate - Svoreň's "guilty pleasure" - has a deep flavor, smooth texture and precisely balanced sweetness. Next comes the caramel wreath, fragrant with butter, crisp and very tasty, and finally the creamy fruit roll, which finishes the evening lightly and with vitality.
Details and More Details
Svoreň's team does not limit itself to evening service. In the kitchen at Hotel Passage, they bake their own breads, pastries, and sweet products, which is evident not only in the tasting menu, but also in the breakfasts for hotel guests - which are simply superb. In addition, passers-by can purchase baked goods to go.
However, the tasting menu at Hotel Passage is a self-confident and full-bodied experience that stands on balance, seasonality, and the chef's distinct signature. It's a cuisine that has already found its direction and continues to evolve. And it is going exactly as Petr Svoreň says: from zero to a hundred.
