Faelt Is Closing – The Michelin-Starred Restaurant That Lost Its Star. Why?

Faelt Is Closing – The Michelin-Starred Restaurant That Lost Its Star. Why?

Ján Chovanec Ján Chovanec Photo: courtesy of Faelt restaurant

Berlin’s Faelt, run by chef Björn Swanson, will close its doors on November 30, 2025. The announcement came via a Facebook post in which Swanson admitted being exhausted from constant crises and losing personal interest in fine dining. “Ohne Stern lief es tatsächlich ziemlich gut,” or “Without the star, things actually went quite well,” he wrote regarding the restaurant’s loss of its Michelin star earlier this year. What does this mean for Berlin’s gastronomy, and which restaurants might attract Faelt’s former guests?

A Small Space, Big Ambitions

Björn Swanson opened Faelt five years ago, just weeks before the first Covid lockdown. Located in Berlin’s Schöneberg district at Vorbergstraße 10A, the restaurant had only 45 square meters. It was “one of the city’s most intimate restaurants of its kind,” according to Restaurant-Ranglisten.de. Yet it managed to deliver a remarkable experience – Swanson’s cuisine was concentrated, seasonal, and technically precise, with a focus on purity of flavor and a distinct personal signature.

The restaurant quickly became a fixture on Berlin’s fine dining map and earned a Michelin star. In 2025, however, it lost that accolade. As usual, the Michelin Guide did not provide an explicit reason. Swanson, though, did not see the loss as a tragedy. “Ohne Stern lief es tatsächlich ziemlich gut” – without the star, things still ran quite well, he told Restaurant-Ranglisten.de.

Why Faelt Is Closing

The decision to close Faelt stems from several factors. Opening just before the pandemic meant the restaurant operated under continuous crisis management from the start – first lockdowns, then inflation, rising costs, and market uncertainty. “Hangeln wir uns seitdem von Krise zu Krise. Ich bin müde davon,” he wrote on Facebook: since then we’ve been swinging from one crisis to the next, and I’m tired of it, he explained to Restaurant-Ranglisten.de.

Another reason is a shift in personal priorities. Swanson admits that fine dining no longer excites him. “Fine dining ist für mich persönlich einfach uninteressant geworden,” he says. “Fine dining has simply become uninteresting for me personally,” he told Falstaff magazine.

At the same time, he emphasizes that the end of Faelt is not a defeat. “Ich habe es nicht mehr gefühlt,” he says, reflecting that the energy and purpose had drained away. He adds that after losing the star, he actually felt relieved because the pressure and expectations had been immense. But that was not the only reason for closing, he told Falstaff again.

Faelt and the Berlin Scene

Berlin is one of Europe’s most dynamic gastronomic cities. Established stars such as Tim Raue, Rutz, and Nobelhart & Schmutzig coexist with smaller experimental venues like Kin Dee and Julius. Faelt stood out in this context – a tiny, almost chamber-like space that nonetheless earned international acclaim.

Its closure, therefore, is not just the disappearance of one restaurant; it is a symbolic signal for the entire fine dining segment.

Implications for Berlin’s Gastronomy

Faelt’s closure could have several effects. Primarily, it represents a loss of diversity within Berlin’s fine dining scene. The city is losing one of the few truly compact projects that delivered a world-class experience in a small space.

Economically, it serves as a warning to other small restaurants. If even an established Michelin-starred venue struggles to survive the combined pressures of the pandemic, inflation, and rising costs, similar projects may face the same challenges.

There is also a psychological dimension. Swanson says losing the star brought him relief. His candid admission may encourage other chefs to focus less on ratings and guidebooks, and more on their own vision and what they find meaningful in gastronomy. In this sense, Faelt’s closure could help loosen the pressures on the scene, as noted by Falstaff.

Another likely consequence is a stronger focus on operationally sustainable concepts – bistros, hybrid formats, or casual fine dining. These models often prove more flexible and resilient in times of crisis.

Finally, Faelt’s absence could shift perceptions of Berlin as a gastronomic destination. The restaurant was part of a mosaic that attracted international visitors. Its closure may subtly change how the city is viewed by diners seeking diverse fine dining experiences.

Where Will the Guests Go?

In the short term, Faelt’s guests are likely to turn to established Michelin addresses. Rutz, Facil, and Nobelhart & Schmutzig continue to deliver high-quality cuisine with comprehensive service. Some patrons may also head to Tim Raue, whose name remains a major culinary brand in Berlin.

In the medium term – once diners have had time to explore – their attention may shift to smaller, more creative restaurants more closely aligned with Faelt’s ethos. They might discover Julius in Wedding, with its micro-seasonal tasting menus, or the Thai-inspired Kin Dee, led by chef Dalad Kambhu, which also emphasizes a personal signature in a more relaxed setting. These venues may appeal to those who valued Faelt’s intimate and distinctive experience.

What’s Next for Björn Swanson?

Swanson plans to take a break. This is not a final farewell to gastronomy, but a departure from the model of “vermeintlicher Spitzengastro” – the so-called or compulsively pursued high-end gastronomy, according to Gourmetwelten.

He already runs Swan&Son, a bistro in Charlottenburg, focusing on more approachable dining: breakfasts, lunches, aperitifs, and dinners. This may serve as a natural transition for some former Faelt patrons. Swanson has not mentioned any new fine dining project. For now, his priority is to breathe, recharge, and find a path less burdened by the pressures of stars and ratings.

The closure of Faelt is therefore more than just the end of one restaurant. It is a reminder that even in a dynamic city like Berlin, gastronomy must continually adapt. Björn Swanson has stepped out of the relentless race for stars – and in doing so, he may have set a trend that other chefs will follow.

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