An evening at Štangl is a meticulously curated experience, where each course highlights one essential ingredient, showcasing its full complexity. From the delicately smoky first course to the meticulously prepared Wagyu, the elegant forest notes of the venison, and the sophisticated finish of the dessert, everything is connected through textures, flavors, and carefully chosen pairings. The guest is guided step by step, with service that is both casual and professional, affirming the artisanal precision and creativity of the kitchen at every moment.
A damp napkin soaked in cumin and barley is the first gesture a guest receives at Štangl. The light, warm aroma of the grain transforms the simple act of sitting down into a moment that calibrates perception: nothing here is rushed, and nothing is delayed. Štangl is a restaurant grounded in sustainability, locality, and respect for natural ingredients. It embraces products "from the field and from the wild," utilizes fermentation and noble molds, and emphasizes seasonality and the natural cycle of ingredients. The kitchen benefits from the Urbanio hydroponic farm, ensuring fresh herbs even in the winter months. Each course places one key ingredient at the center; dishes are simple in appearance but complex in preparation, emphasizing flavors, textures, and unique moments. An ethical approach and collaboration with farmers complement the restaurant's philosophy.
The kitchen is open, allowing guests to observe the chefs at work. The space accommodates just over three dozen guests, creating an intimate atmosphere. Meals are served on handmade ceramics and plates crafted by Czech designers, while the service is professional, natural, and friendly. At several points in the evening, chef Martin Štangl personally serves some courses, acting as an integral part of the dialogue between the kitchen and the guest.
The evening begins with a glass of Pierre Paillard Bouzy Grand Cru champagne, Les Parcelles, whose delicate bubbles and mineral notes underscore the kitchen's first offering - a grilled bread cake with buckwheat butter and koji. Delicate slices of pork neck and tiny cubes of pickled pumpkin also grace the plate, with a fennel hint and a pinch of Maldon salt, creating a harmony of smoke, sweetness, and a subtle fatty texture. The champagne, with its slightly citrusy undertones, brings elegance and freshness to the combination, balancing the denser notes of meat and butter.
The rhythm is pleasant, the flavors delicate
The three types of amuse-bouche that follow act as small culinary miniatures that gradually open up the flavor universe of Štangl. The first is a potato in ash, small and smoky, garnished with chives, dill, and lightly smoked syrup, evoking the Bohemian soil and the naturalness of the ingredients. The second amuse-bouche is Vidlák cheese from the Bláto farm, combined with hawthorn, parsley, chokecherry, and tiny beans from the hydroponic farm within the restaurant - the intimacy and closeness of the ingredients are palpable here, enhanced by the open kitchen that guests pass by, allowing them to observe the chefs in action. The third amuse-bouche is mushroom tea from Foxglove, complete with mushroom ketchup, pine needle oil, pickled pine needles, and sorrel, whose aromatic complexity and subtle sweetness contrast perfectly with the freshness of the champagne, preparing the taste buds for the tasting courses to follow.
Another highlight of the evening is the petite finger food, which combines simplicity with utmost precision: Czech Wagyu smeared with mustard oil accompanies a fried Jerusalem artichoke doughnut, complete with ponzu gel, horseradish and parsley mayonnaise, and fresh herbs from the restaurant's on-site hydroponic farm. Each element on the plate is carefully balanced, with the Wagyu showing its full texture and flavor, enhanced by the subtle addition of vegetables and gel, while the doughnut brings a nice contrast of fried sweetness. The pairing with the wine Mělnický kalamář, a Ruland blue, is precise and elegant: the light acidity of the wine emphasizes the meat's tenderness, while balancing the sweetness and density of the doughnut. The non-alcoholic alternative, apple fresh with horseradish essence, resonates perfectly with the dish - the green apples add necessary freshness, and the horseradish naturally follows the mayonnaise flavor line, creating a harmonious connection that prepares the taste buds for subsequent courses.
The excellent service and the overall originality of the evening are confirmed in the next course, an example of the precise thinking of the Štangl kitchen: carrots smoked on the fire, accompanied by sunflower seed foam, pickled cranberries, poppy seeds, and poppy seed oil. Delicately sweet yet smoky, the carrots become the central ingredient around which different textures and aromas coalesce - the miso adds depth and umami, the seed foam brings lightness, while the pickled cranberries and oil create a contrasting sour and sweet line. The pairing with Charpin wine from Porta Bohemica winery in Litoměřice, a bold blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a subtle oxidative style, is precise: tertiary nutty notes harmonize with the creamy sunflower seed mousse, while highlighting the smoky and sweet depth of the carrot. In the non-alcoholic version, homemade kefir with sea buckthorn brings a creamy texture and subtle acidity that harmonizes with the pickled cranberries, maintaining the balance and sophistication of the flavor.
Each component has its place
Elegance and effortlessness are confirmed in the next course: butter-roasted zander, served on a bed of cauliflower puree and fresh cauliflower slices, with pickled elderflower and a delicate sauce built on balsamic, trout caviar, hazelnut oil, chives, and shallots. The plate combines the delicacy of the fish with the slightly sweet and sour notes of the elderberries, the texture of the puree with the crisp fresh cauliflower, and the complex flavors of the sauce. Pairing with the opulent and creamy Chardonnay Jaroslav Springer Zagreb 2022 brings perfect harmony: the rounded acidity of the wine accentuates the delicacy of the fish and the puree, giving the whole course a sense of sophisticated balance. The non-alcoholic variant, a green tea kombucha with the addition of pear during the second fermentation, combines the aroma of pear with pickled elderflower and perfectly develops the flavor nuances of the dish without appearing heavy.
Another highlight of the tasting evening is the grilled European deer loin accompanied by confit meat, whose preparation reveals the philosophy of Štangl: "Because we take the whole deer, we also want to make the most of it." On the plate, the meat is accompanied by grilled kale, kale mayonnaise, and a crunchy crumble made from kale trimmings, which adds a contrasting texture. Beside it is a mushroom basket with mushroom ketchup, grilled celery, and mushroom sabayon. The sauce, poured by the server in front of the guest, combines deer garum, brown butter, and fly balls, uniting the woodsy and meaty notes of the entire course. The pairing with André 2018 from the Petr Marada winery is perfect: the intense, ripe wine retains a fruitiness and freshness that accentuates the complex flavors of the meat and the natural texture of the sauce. The non-alcoholic version, rosehip tea with cherry vinegar and oil of spearmint, creates a harmonious contrast: the rosehips, also present in the sauce, together with the acidity of the vinegar, perfectly complement the strong and delicate notes of the deer.
Before the dessert itself comes the milk ice cream, acting as a gentle palate cleanser after the robust flavors of the deer. It's complemented with pickled gooseberry and small herbs from the hydroponic farm, giving the course lightness, freshness, and a subtle acidic line that prepares the taste buds for the final sweet notes. The ice cream, creamy, childishly delicate, and smooth, feels natural and effortless, while confirming Štangl's philosophy of simplicity, purity of ingredients, and sophisticated flavor work.
Štangl is the restaurant we desire
The final dessert is a sophisticated symphony of flavors: dried late plums accompanied by plum puree, chocolate mousse, fig leaf ice cream, hazelnut dust, hay oil, and honeycomb biscuit. Each element has a casual feel, yet together they create a complex and harmonious flavor composition - sweetness, tartness, smoky hay notes, and a subtle chocolate note alternate in an elegant balance. The spicy and aromatic liqueur wine Šaler exclusive from Špale winery highlights the plum and nut nuances of the dessert, adding depth and sophistication to the course. The non-alcoholic alternative, hibiscus tea with a cocoa bean husk infusion, resonates perfectly with the cocoa and sloe notes of the dessert, closing the tasting evening with a sweet, aromatic finish and confirming that every pairing at Štangl is carefully considered and harmonious.
The evening ends with a small sweet gesture: three types of praline to round off the whole tasting experience. The first combines chocolate with hazelnuts, the second is a honeycomb with honeycomb and mascarpone cream, and the third petit four is a dried pear served with cotton candy-flavored hash browns. Each praline offers a subtle sweetness, while unobtrusively complementing the flavor line of the entire evening - from the smoke, fermentation, and meaty notes to the woodsy and fruity nuances of the final dessert.
This final touch confirms the thoughtfulness and artisanal precision of Štangl's cuisine, leaving the guest with the feeling that every moment of the evening was part of an elegantly balanced culinary story.
