The legendary bar Zahir in Nitra is a must-visit on a gastrotrip through Slovakia. It's a venue recognized by the global bar scene and one of the few Slovak establishments to make the prestigious 50 Best Discovery list. Luboš Rácz, a prominent figure whose name resonates across the Czechoslovak bar community, reigns supreme behind the bar.
During our visit, also captured in a video report, Luboš Rácz mixed us five cocktails that best describe his philosophy: the taste must be honest, the story must be clear, and the service must be human.
The Good Old, New Zahir, and Brand New Guests
"By doing away with the daytime concept and focusing only on evening service, I feel like we're opening a new bar," says Luboš Rácz, a bartender who has been shaping the face of Slovak and Czech mixology for two decades.
"And with the new bar, new guests are really coming. We have to fight for them. Today, younger people are coming to bars, and cocktails are selling stories again - simply and clearly told. We don't have to push the latest techniques, but every drink has to be perfectly made. Quality ingredients, the right technique, and service are key - you come to the table when you're supposed to and choose a tone that engages the guest. Friendly and measured to the situation. That's the hardest part - impressing the guest by adapting to them, surprising them when they go, and wanting them to come back next time."
Taste and Texture Above All Else
Rácz has never been swept away by modern effects just because they're trendy. "I resist clarification, for example, because it usually takes away from the taste. For me, taste and texture play a crucial role. I want it to be recognizable in a cocktail - for the guest to feel what the season has given to the ingredient."
Seasonality is typical for Zahir. The bar rotates ingredients based on what's currently fresh, aging, and inspiring. The result is cocktails that not only taste great but also tell a story.
Butter Rum Old Fashioned: Autumn in a Glass
Tonka beans, chocolate bitters, and a Papua New Guinea bark called Masoya, similar to cinnamon but with a different flavor. "I overcook the butter, toast the spices, and infuse everything into seven-year-old Havana rum," Rácz explains.
The result? A spicy profile that has a pleasant bite on the tongue - an Old Fashioned made for autumn evenings.
Negroni Sbagliato: A Night of Vermouth Flavours
Three types of vermouth - Punt e Mes, Cocchi, and Lacuesta - together with Campari create a complex, bittersweet whole. The final touch is provided by the aromatic grapes of the Isabella and Irsai Oliver varieties, cured overnight in vermouth and Campari. The result is a Negroni Sbagliato that has the depth and lightness typical of Rácz's work: simplicity built on detail. "I called it Cuvée because grapes are in every component of this drink, and the mix creates a wonderful aromatic and flavorful whole," adds the bartender.
Seelenfreund: A Tribute to Friendship
One of the most personal drinks is the Seelenfreund, created for bartending legend Charles Schumann. "We are friends. I always ask for the bill at the bar when I leave. Charles always tells me I'm crazy, that I'll never pay here because I'm his soulmate, Seelenfreund. It's not about the money, but I deeply respect his word," says Luboš.
The drink combines elements that mean something to Schumann - Campari, Nikka whiskey, port wine, and a drop of Aperol in memory of the first Aperol Sour Luboš drank at his bar in 1995. A few drops of Passion bitter complete the overall harmony. "It's actually a twist on Boulevardier - in the context of Schumann's bar and the personality of Charles himself."
Apple-Yuzu Gimlet: Freshness with a Japanese Touch
Homemade apple cordial topped with yuzu, which Rácz dilutes with a splash of lime juice. "The yuzu is beautiful, but too strong. The lime gives it balance," he explains. The base is classic Beefeater gin, resulting in a refreshing, herbal-tinged cocktail with a subtle hint of sweetness. Perfect for guests looking for a fresh contrast to the heavier drinks of the evening.
"The French 75-style version complemented with Spanish Cava was a hit of the summer season and our best-selling drink," adds Rácz of the variation of ingredients he uses for other drink groups.
The Ultimate Daiquiri: A Return to the Roots
"I wanted to get as much citrus flavor into this drink as possible," says Rácz. His lime cordial is a complex of citrus flavors and oils. It's based on fresh lime juice, zest, and leaves. He supplements it with lemongrass and, in season, lemon verbena from the growers of Herbs of Beladice. The cordial blends with three types of white rum - one agricole and two molasses. The result is a layered, lively Daiquiri that has both complexity and sparkle. "Verbena is my heartthrob. It brings the smell and taste of summer to the cocktail - yet it feels completely natural."
Zahir as a State of Mind
Zahir isn't just a bar; it's a way of thinking about hospitality. Cocktails here have a story, a meaning, and a moment. "The foundation I grew up bartending with is that the guest takes a drink and immediately wants to take another - and then orders the same drink again. When that happens, I know I've done it right," says Luboš Rácz.
"If a guest likes a drink and orders the same one again, it's a win. If they come back the next day and bring their friends, that's the best thing that can happen to a bartender and his bar."
