That evening, Toño Pérez (*** Michelin Guide star), Alejandro Serrano (*), Thijs Vervloet (**), Esben Holmboe Bang (***), Stefan Doubek (**), and Andreas Krolik (**) sat at the same table in Zdenek's Oyster Bar. Vojta Petržela headed the kitchen, Piknikon took charge of the informal and thematic dinner, and wines from Gurdau winery were poured into glasses, followed by premium Balbin water. This year's prestigious culinary event, Symposium Culinary Prague, was literally a few hours away.
First impression? Elegance and concentration. Zdenek's Oyster Bar, located at one of the best gastronomic addresses in Prague, seemed like a place that ceased to exist for anyone else for a few hours that evening. The tables were carefully set, the light intimate and soft as satin, and a tense, expectant atmosphere hovered over it all, brought to life by six chefs with a combined thirteen Michelin stars.
This is not just a place to dine. This is where courage will be tested.
Picnicon: When Catering Tells a Story
The evening had a clear signature - Picnicon. They never "just catered," never served "just food"; they served an experience, sometimes playful, sometimes unexpected, always thoughtful. For this evening, they prepared a small, almost literary element: for each course, the guest was given a short note on a piece of paper that put the next dish in context. These little notes acted as silent commentaries on what was to follow - poetic, witty, functional.
And, as it later turned out, Picnicon had one more trump card up their sleeve: a man dressed as a fish, wielding a fishing rod, offering the last sweet morsel of the evening. "A fish catches his man on a rod." Magical absurdity? Yes. Exactly the type of creativity that makes Picnicon one of the most interesting private catering players on the Czech gastro scene.
Menu by Vojta Petržela
The welcome was provided by the first glass of Gurdau Extra Brut 2021. It awakened the guests and set the atmosphere; its citrus line lit up the palate, and there was both freshness and a subtle chalkiness in the taste, typical of Gurdau. Guests were ready for the first bites. Each dish had a name, each represented a message from the chef towards his tablemates.
The amuse-bouche was in the spirit of a gradually unfolding story that first gently grounded the guests, then entertained, and finally tuned them into more focused tones. The opening "Grounding" acted as an opening embrace of the kitchen - pork neck coppa, smooth smoked lard, mini pizzelles, and marrow butter created a harmony of saltiness, subtle smoke, and acidic sharpness. Served on wooden cutting boards, along with a soft beer roll, it evoked a homey atmosphere in an elegant presentation.
The second amuse-bouche, "Baohemian," set a completely different energy. The bao-langosh combined the delicacy of Asian bao dough with the rustic, fried soul of the langosh naturally and convincingly. Smoked ketchup added depth, umami mayo rounded out the entire composition, and sheep's cheese added an aromatic edge. The pickled tomato kept the bite fresh and slightly acidic. The result was a playful and bold bite that seamlessly blended different culinary traditions.
The third amuse-bouche, "Eel Grey," switched the atmosphere to a calmer, more meditative plane. The three-day consommé of bones and burnt onions with chunks of smoked eel had depth and concentration of flavors: smoke, mineral saltiness, dark onion notes, and a hint of lime freshness. Served as a warm, comforting tea, it gradually revealed layers of flavors, with the 2023 Veltliner Bouche 'Vineyard' bringing mineral precision and fresh acidity that complemented the composition elegantly.
Tomáš Kalina, the organizer of Culinary Symposium Prague, moved between the tables - if it weren't for him and the Symposium, this evening would not have happened. The energy he brought was almost palpable.
The starter and main course represented two distinct, contrasting moments of the evening. "Red River" offered pickled trout fillet with Tsabai sausage sauce, fermented kohlrabi, and paprika oil. The delicate, almost floral sweetness of the fish was complemented by the tangy, smoky character of the sauce that lit up the entire bite. The fermented kohlrabi added the necessary acidity, while the 2023 "Vineyard" Pinot Blanc brought everything together in a harmonious line with a subtle citrus line.
The main course, "The Untamed," was the wildest and most concentrated moment of the evening. Venison loin laced with wild mushrooms with yeast and Alburefa sauce created a complex palette of flavors: soft, succulent meat with a subtly sweet forest aroma, thick umami mushroom notes, and thick, warming nuances of sauce reminiscent of cocoa and autumn forest. The "Bread raviolo" served in a consommé of aged venison bones with mushroom oil in a side dish offered both intensity and lightness. The 2022 "Old Mountain" Riesling added a crisp, mineral backbone that tamed the intensity of the course and brought elegant balance.
These courses gradually graded in flavor and concentration: from the delicate sweetness and freshness of the starter to the complex and expressive main course, where elegance married with woodsy notes.
Look for... Elegance in the Poppy
The dessert portion of the evening offered both play and subtle provocation. "Opium" featured a curd mousse with hydrated plums, poppy seed ice cream, buckwheat biscuit, donut, and poppy seed tea, served in an elegant circle with a pour in the center. The gentle acidity of the mousse contrasted with the deep sweetness of the plums, the poppy seeds adding a subtle nutty line and the buckwheat a rustic, almost rustic contrast. Each bite felt like a little ritual - sweet, sophisticated, and thoughtful. The accompanying 2023 Riesling Cibéby "Old Mountain" underscored the complexity of the dessert with its sweetness and aromas of apricot and honey, while its acidity kept the whole composition balanced.
The final touch of the evening was the "Carp Supremacy" - a choux bonbon with pork blood and ruby chocolate, served on an understated pillow that demanded full attention. The ruby chocolate created a fruity line, while the pig's blood added a subtle metallic note that stabilized the sweetness. The final gesture of the evening was completed by a man dressed as a fish "fishing" guests with a fishing rod, offering the last bite. The moment brought a playfulness, absurdity, and irony typical of the Picnicon style. The Michelin chefs experienced an unexpected yet perfectly thought-out ending to the feast.
An evening that began as a low-key gathering of some big culinary names turned into an intimate, playful, and poetic moment. Zdenek's Oyster Bar provided an elegant and welcoming setting, Picnicon added an unmistakable character to the evening, Gurdau infused the wines and service with a refined elegance, and Vojta Petržela set the direction of the cuisine with confidence and ease.
This is how moments are created that are remembered long after the last bite - moments that connect gastronomy with story, playfulness, and human energy.
