It begins with a langoš and ends with caramel. In between, Chef Daniel Tilinger’s kitchen delivers one of the most meticulously executed evenings in contemporary Central European gastronomy. At ECK today, it’s not about spectacle, but about the whole - and it’s exceptionally cohesive.
You’ll remember this evening
The opening sequence arrives in exactly the recommended order: langoš, pork belly, a glass of wine, and finally crispbread.
The langoš, in the form of a small crispy ball, is filled with smoked zander and caramelised milk purée, topped with mayonnaise and grated mature sheep’s cheese from Gemer. The first impression is one of contrast: crunch, smoke, the slight sweetness of the milk, followed by the salty, lingering aftertaste of the cheese.
The grilled pork belly on a skewer feels more robust, but the acidity keeps it in check. The fermented tomato barbecue sauce isn’t sweet, but slightly tangy, and works perfectly in this combination. Salsa made from rehydrated pumpkin and carrot adds texture, while pickled onion and crispy pork rind provide contrast.
In the glass, the pace slows slightly: grilled leek, confit egg yolk, and a foam of fermented white asparagus, topped with pickled pine needles. The delicate, slightly tart foam, the richness of the egg yolk, and the forest aromas create a distinctly layered moment.
Knäckebröd rounds off the introduction with a drier note. A cream made from three-month-old cheese from Ľubča in Slovakia and a purée of trumpet mushrooms bring earthiness and a slight bitterness.
Even before the first course, a bun arrives - baked in clarified butter, with wild garlic, confit garlic, and yeast. Two types of butter - one plain, the other with a yeast crumble and hazelnuts - are not an accompaniment, but a fully fledged part of the experience.
Trout, apple and the chef’s handling of acidity
The evening begins with cold trout: lightly smoked, with dark mustard seeds, and a layer of apples beneath. A dressing of juiced horseradish, tart apple, and fennel oil. Topped with fermented white asparagus, elderflower, fresh horseradish, and chives.
The flavour is layered, with the individual components unfolding gradually. First, the subtle smoke and richness of the fish, then a sharp, fleeting hint of horseradish and acidity, followed by the sweet-and-sour notes of apples and flowers.
Pairing at ECK takes two directions. The restaurant offers the Roots & Terroir option (€80), which features wines from various corners of the world and works with a variety of styles. The selection reflects the character of individual regions and allows for less traditional interpretations of terroir. The second option is Grapes & Appellation (€100), focusing on classic appellations and established wineries, based on better-known grape varieties and more traditional styles.
We choose both options, and the evening begins with a Burgundian Aligoté from Jeremy Recuignot, which is clean and mineral, with a distinct citrus note. Alongside it is a Chenin Blanc from Thibaut Boudignon in the Loire, with higher acidity and structure from older vines on a schist subsoil.
Grilled white asparagus from Velké Leváry is served with a beeswax cream. The texture is round, enveloping, and slightly rich. Sautéed maitake and spinach add umami, while elderberry caviar brings a delicate sweetness. A foam made from fermented asparagus lightens the whole dish.
The wine pairing responds to the structure. A Palomino from Andalusia (Bodega Cota 45) offers gentle oxidation, notes of nuts, and oxidised apple thanks to ageing under flor. Alternatively, a Pinot Blanc from Gurdau in Moravia offers a fuller, more layered profile.
The second trout is confit in butter. It is accompanied by white strawberries with sorrel, tarragon sauce, and an apple gel with a hint of clarified butter. Green asparagus rounds off the dish with its firm texture.
Here, the menu’s leitmotif becomes apparent. Apple returns in various forms - raw, fermented, and as a gel - and ties the individual courses together.
From Mangalica to rabbit
Before the meat course comes a non-alcoholic pairing, which is one of the evening’s highlights. The oxidised pear with lime blossom and cloves has a deliberately velvety texture. This is followed by sorrel with grapes, cold-hopped: aromatic, but without bitterness.
The Mangalica is grilled and juicy, with the fat perfectly rendered. Beneath it lies a sautéed salad, pickled beetroot with mint, and a purée of charred apples. A dill foam lightens the whole course.
The pairing leans towards lighter red wines. The Frankovka from Strekovo (2019) is juicy, with notes of dark fruit and spice. Alongside it, the Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast (Littorai, 2015) offers a cooler, herbal profile.
The rabbit is stuffed with a ’nduja-style paprika sausage. It is served with a pesto of wild garlic and mustard leaves, morels, and a rich bone jus. A foam made from fermented pikeperch adds another, unexpected layer of flavour.
The pairing continues with a Loire wine (Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny), displaying a slightly animal character and dark fruit. Alternatively, the Brunello di Montalcino from La Cerbaiona offers the fullness and character of a sunny vintage, with well-integrated alcohol.
Apple at the start and finish
Before dessert comes a brief interlude: sea buckthorn with apple and lemon verbena. A liquid core, a sweet-and-sour profile, and a quick cleansing of the palate.
The dessert rests on two pillars: caramel and apple. Caramel custard with roasted pumpkin seeds, poppy seeds, and verbena. Alongside it, a layered, baked, and caramelised apple with yoghurt ice cream and sabayon, to which sourdough is added for subtle acidity.
The pairing moves away from sweet wines. An excellent Champagne Collard-Picard (Réserve Perpétuelle) brings brioche notes and a slightly oxidative tone. A Chardonnay from the Jura (Domaine des Marnes Blanches) offers a toasty, layered finish.
Petit fours round off the evening. A pumpkin seed bonbon with salted caramel and white chocolate, and a financier with buttercream, caramel, and dried mushroom powder demonstrate the creativity of head chef Daniel Tilinger’s team.
ECK is an ambitious project, yet it does not come across as a restaurant seeking to shock. On the contrary - it is an establishment that builds a complete experience: an unforgettable moment, a fulfilling evening.
Apple recurs throughout the menu; its acidity maintains the structure, while fermentation adds depth. Fire is present at ECK (as always), but it is not dominant. And that is precisely the strength of this evening: not in the individual courses, however superb they may be, but above all in how perfectly they fit together.
