Spain without compromise: a return to the essence of gastronomy at El Camino Tapas

Spain without compromise: a return to the essence of gastronomy at El Camino Tapas

Ján Chovanec Ján Chovanec Photo: Courtesy of El Camino Tapas

The moment the owner personally serves you your starter and, as a matter of course, begins to tell the story behind each ingredient, it becomes clear that this is about more than just dinner. El Camino Tapas is a place where authenticity isn’t just for show – here, it’s lived, sourced, and served with precision and passion.

A journey that begins with the ingredients

The elegant, modern interior, free of unnecessary frills, allows the essentials to shine through – a well-thought-out concept based on absolute control over the ingredients. David Böhm and his team don’t wait for deliveries; they go and fetch them themselves. In Spain, they select wines as well as key ingredients, which are then given a new context in Prague without losing their authenticity. It is precisely this extreme care that can be tasted in every bite.

The tasting evening begins unobtrusively, but exactly as it should. “You have before you sika deer tartare with mushroom duxelles and two textures of egg yolk,” says Böhm as he places the plate on the table with his characteristic elegance. The rustic, coarsely chopped meat, the contrasting delicacy of the egg yolk gel and grated yolk, the pickled mushrooms, and the light, biscuit-like texture create a flavour profile that is deep yet distinct.

The second course shifts the evening towards the sea. Scallops with pil-pil sauce – an emulsion of cod-skin collagen infused with seaweed – are served with paprika marmalade and a foam made from the dish’s own stock. “This is an emulsion based on collagen and the taste of the sea,” explains Böhm. The result is technically precise, yet doesn’t feel laboratory-made; rather, it feels like a natural continuation of Spanish tradition.

Grilled trout with migas – breadcrumbs made from dried fish skin – adds another layer of textural work. A light escabeche of shallots, fennel, and celery, complemented by dill and dill oil, keeps the dish fresh and prepares the way for more pronounced flavours.

A tradition unafraid of reinterpretation

One of the highlights of the evening is Pulpo a la Gallega. “This is one of the most traditional ways of preparing octopus in Spain, but we’ve put our own spin on it,” says Böhm. And it is precisely this “own spin” that defines the entire evening. The potato is transformed, restructured, and fried; the octopus is perfectly tender, with a light char. Smoked paprika, an emulsion of garlic and olive oil, and a stock foam create a layered yet perfectly balanced whole.

The next main course brings the Canary Islands to the table in the form of arepas with rabbit. The terrine is then grilled, glazed with an intense jus, and complemented by rum-and-saffron-confit onions, mango, and mojos – a combination that balances sweetness, depth, and subtle exoticism without losing control.

The amuse-bouche changes; this time, it’s foie gras mousse with quince jelly in a delicate rice basket. A small bite, but one that sets the tone perfectly – playful yet precise.

The dessert finale is a nod to tradition. Goat’s-milk cuajada with a distinctive flavour, complemented by a milk wafer, olive oil pearls, and pine nuts in sugar, feels like a return to the roots. Alongside it, turrón from Alicante – almonds and caramel in various textures – rounds off the evening with a clear nod to a Spanish confectionery classic.

Yet another, no less important thread runs through the entire menu: wine. The pairings are delicate, precise, and confident. The experienced team treats wine as an equal partner to the dish – not merely an accompaniment. Every course is given its own space; every wine, its own moment.

El Camino Tapas is not a restaurant that tries to impress at any cost. It is a place where things make sense – from the journey to source the ingredients to the very last drop in the glass. And that is precisely why it is worth returning.

This is not an experience built on a one-off effect, but on trust built over time: in the product, in the craft, and in the signature of the people behind it. Every course has its reason, every combination its logic, and every wine its precise place in the story of the evening. Nothing here feels random, yet nothing feels constrained either.

It is precisely in this natural balance between control and ease that the restaurant’s greatest strength lies. You feel as though you are part of something authentic, not just something well-rehearsed. And perhaps that is precisely why you leave knowing that this is not a place you simply “tick off your list,” but one you want to return to – each time a little differently, but always with the same certainty that it makes sense.

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